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  • Final day on the Camino Invierno

    Final day on the Camino Invierno

    Geoff Jones in Santiago
    The End

    Since Colin was so close to his home and has obviously visited Santiago many times, I decided to walk the final stretch from Bandeira to Santiago de Compostella on my own.

    I took up their kind offer of dropping me off 10km closer at Pont Ulla since the full distance is 32km, a bit much for an oldie with a full rucksack, especially with no breakfast.

    At Pont Ulla I was immediately confronted with a 250metre climb up the next 3km ๐Ÿ™ The route I downloaded seems to be for a cyclist since I lost all arrows and markers once in the wood. However, on the descent, they started reappearing where I met an American lady who has lived in Hannover for 40 years she recommended the “Wise Pilgrim” app and it did seem pretty good.

    Spanish Pilgrim routes from wisewpilgrim.com
    More Pilgrim routes than motorways

    I met many more pilgrims in the next few miles who were completing The Sanabres route all were amazed that you could walk for 7 days and only meet 1 pilgrim ๐Ÿ™‚

    After stopping for a drink at The Bar Rosende (still no food though) I didn’t see another pilgrim until Santiago and yes I was following a legit route with markers!

    An excellent walk on traffic free lanes although I was getting pretty exhausted by the time I arrived at The NestStyle Hotel for my final night before returning home.

    The Strava shows 21.6 km walked and an impressive 713m (2,339 feet) climbed

    the day’s pics are here:
    Invierno to Santiago

  • Cobbling between Chantada and Bandeira on The Invierno

    Cobbling between Chantada and Bandeira on The Invierno

    ยฉColin Modified shoe

    Today was Colin’s chance to display his cobbling skills to me after his shoe has been causing him so much pain, very artful it was too, certainly unlike any of my bodged jobs. See the photo for full details, I don’t think he’s applied for a patent yet!

    Apparently, it did the trick at zero cost enabling him to walk with much less pain ๐Ÿ™‚

    The walking distance between Chantada and Bandeira according to my route sheet is 55km which, obviously, at our pace is way too far.ย  So once again we called on the services of Geoff to take us to just the other side of Lalin giving us a very pleasant 22km walk to Bandeira.

    Stork on chimney

    Unfortunately, we were admiring the HOXE dairy plant so much we missed the footpath turning immediately after it ๐Ÿ™ thus meaning we at to walk across the Rio Dezo bridge and thus ended up on the busy N-525 road. Mistake spotted we hurried onto a minor road to rejoin the path at its other end.

    We then arrived in Silleda and started debating about having our usual late lunch, unfortunately, Geoff had already left for Banderia which meant no lunch for us us. Spanish places stop serving at 4 ish and don’t open again till 8 ish ๐Ÿ™

    The Hostel Conda Rey in Banderia is quite basic as is the town with its overpowering smell of pig muck ๐Ÿ™ In the end for dinner we ended up driving back to Silleda which for me was the most disgusting so-called Vegi pizza ever ๐Ÿ™ they replaced it with some very yellow tortilla.

    We ended up walking 22km with 350metres of climbing.

    The pictures of the day are here:
    Camino Inveirdo to Barreida
    Colin has written another excellent post on the day here https://colindavies.blogspot.com/2019/05/thoughts-from-galicia-spain-22519.html

  • Camino Invierno โ€“ Monforte de Lemos to Chantada

    Camino Invierno โ€“ Monforte de Lemos to Chantada

    Today should have been a long day as the Camino distance between Monforte and Chantadaย  ย is 31km. However, we are exceptionally fortunate in having a backup with Geoff driving Colins car so once again he drove us outside Monforte to the 113.3 marker stone on the LU-4106.

    The route is very rural keeping me occupied updating the hamlet names on OSM every mile or so using the Go Map!! app. walking was quite slow as Colin’s foot was playing up again plus he left his hat behind at one of our many stops necessitating a dash back for me to collect it.

    The drop down through the woods to Belesar from the church of San Paio de Diamondi (Interestingly the 100km point to Santiago) was fantastic although looking at the equally sharp ascent across the river made us pleased that Geoff was waiting by the river in the car especially since we hadn’t passed any open bars or shops!

    After some food and checking in at Hotel Mogay we then attempted to find the Gold award winning Airas Moniz cheese farm, GMaps conveniently stuck a pin in the middle of a field which we then drove around in a series of circles ๐Ÿ™ Eventually, we found some mechanics who gave us instructions. Once there whilst waiting for the cheesemaker to separate the curd & wheyย  I updated OSM to make sure no one suffers the same fate!

    We had a quick tour, its a very small place, interesting but alas no blue cheese to take away but the sample tasted pretty good.

    Strava says we walked I6.7km (but 1.2km was fetching the errant hat)and 305m of ascent.

    Strava says:

    The pics are here:

    Camino Invierno to Chantara

    Here is Colin’s estimable post of the day https://colindavies.blogspot.com/2019/05/thoughts-from-galicia-21519.html

  • Camino Invierno – A La Brada to Monforte de Lemos

    Camino Invierno – A La Brada to Monforte de Lemos

    Another excellent walking day, I’m really getting into my stride now ๐Ÿ™‚ The distance between Quiroga and Monforte de Lemos on the Camino Invierno is given as 36km which is a bit far for us, although a first for us on this Camino is we met a fellow walker from Austria who was doing the whole 36km at speed.

    Our solution was to ride in the car to Restaurant La Brada this reduced the distance to just less than 20km starting very close to a medieval bridge and a 200 metre climb ๐Ÿ™‚

    Dropping down into A Pobra do Brollรณn a wild boar and her family of piglets dashed across our path, fortunately, the father wasn’t around although Colin did get to meet the local election candidate, at length, in the cafe when we stopped for our morning drink ๐Ÿ™‚

    The scenery then became more rural and flatter apart from the final 100 metre climb before the descent into Monforte de Lemos and Geoff awaiting in the car to take us to the Hotel Ribeira and a short walk to the excellent Taperia Restaurant.

    An excellent day walking of 19km.ย  The rain stayed away. although at one point it became quite cold.

    Theย  Strava is here:

    and the days’ pics are here:

    Camino Invierno A Labrada to Monforte de Lemos
    Another excellent write up on the day by Colin here https://colindavies.blogspot.com/2019/05/thoughts-from-galicia-spain-20519.html

     

  • Camino Invierno โ€“ O Barco de Valdeorras to Quiroga

    Camino Invierno โ€“ O Barco de Valdeorras to Quiroga

    River Sil Valley

    Once again as the Camino Walks it would have been 46 km fromย  O Barco de Valdeorras to our lodgings outside Quiroga our distance is governed by the lack of accommodation on the route especially for 3 pilgrims requiring single rooms, although it has toย  be said we haven’t walked past very many, if any other, accommodations that are open.

    Fortunately for today Colin and I having Geoff with his Achilles tendon problem and Colin’s car we not only get to have our bags carried but also can choose which bits to walk ๐Ÿ™‚ Today we chose to walk from Montefurado to the outskirts of Quiroga a distance according to my watch ofย  just over 17km but with over 450m of ascent.

    House in need of TLC

    The views down the Sil River are magnificent as are all the ancient derelict houses begging to be renovated, in fact, we asked the sole resident in the street he immediately wanted me to buy his 3 bedroomed modernish house with amazing views down the valley for โ‚ฌ50,000 so he could retire to Leon. ๐Ÿ™‚

    A very enjoyable day with the weather quite a bit cooler and the occasional light shower underfoot mainly on tracks and incredibly quiet roads.

    We managed to find a lunch stop on the outskirts of Quiroga, the Meson Parillada O Ferreirino very pleasant and at โ‚ฌ10 for a three-course meal and beer a real bargain. Then a short ride to our homestay lodgings Hospedaje Ferreria-Quinta with the two baby owls nesting in the old tree stump outside ๐Ÿ™‚

    Strava says we walked 17km and 456 metres of ascent in 4 hours 23min
    Today’s pics are here:
    Camino Invierno โ€“ O Barco de Valdeorras to Quiroga

  • Camino Invierno โ€“ Borrenes to O Barco de Valdeorras

    Camino Invierno โ€“ Borrenes to O Barco de Valdeorras

    The distance via Camino between Borrenes and O Barco de Valdeorras according to my route is 36km so a pretty lengthy one!

    Fortunately our host, Saturno, offered to drive us all in his 4WD to the Mirador de Orellan and then drop us of in the car park outside Las Medulas thus savingย  7km walking on the Camino plus giving us a private viewing of the spectacular ruins of a mountain demolished by Roman slaves in the pursuit of gold for their masters.ย  This ably demonstrating the advantages of having a fluent Spanish speaker in our trio thanks, Colin!

    We turned off the Camino to do the short walk to the Mirador de Pedrices to admire the ingenuity of the Roman engineers in using water as a blasting medium to break up the mountain. Whilst thinking why hasn’t anyone finished the job off with dynamite!

    We then started the long descent into Puente de Domingo Florez to find a very welcome bar for a drink and some tapas the route then went up a hill and past an intriguing hydroelectric scheme, apparently built by the Germans to aid their extraction of Wolfram (Tungsten Ore) in the forties. The track is very undulating down the valley with great views of the surrounding countryside and the slate works alongside the main road below. We decided to end the days walking in the lovely town of Sobradelo having a great late lunch in the busy Meson Museo restaurant. Fortunately, Geoff joined us with Colin’s car so we could skip the final 9km to O Barco.

    The Hotel O Camino had a very challenging electronic kiosk to obtain the entry key which took at least 20 minutes to issue the keys for the three of us.

    The day itself was cool and overcast with periodic rain showers

    So Strava says we walked the 23 km (The watch missed around 1km) in under 5 hours of walking so 4.6km/hour

    Here are the pics of the day:
    Camino Invierno โ€“ Borrenes to O Barco de Valdeorras

  • Camino Invierno – Ponferrada to Borrenes

    Camino Invierno – Ponferrada to Borrenes

    An excellent days walk on the Camino Invierno with Colin, alas poor Geoff’s Achilles tendon prevented him from joining us except for a brief encounter en route in the car and at the end. Sally will be pleased to know I really enjoyed the walking and Graham will be pleased that with Colin’s help I’m slowing down ๐Ÿ™‚

    Contrails heading to Santiago airport

    We started walking to the famous castle in Ponferrada, meeting a constant stream of pilgrims on the over popular Camino Frances, including aircraft flying to Santiago airport, showing them the way, instead of the old fashioned Milky Way,ย  I stopped to correct the OSM where the original Camino is prevented from crossing the railway line.

    What a joy once over the river that we turned right whereas all the pilgrims where coming from the left ๐Ÿ™‚ We didn’t see another pilgrim all day.

    View of Castillo de Cornatel from our ascent

    The walking was superb if a little bit hilly all on very quiet roads & tracks we found a shop where the lady kindly helped us make sandwiches on her deli counter ready for us to eat at the top of the major climb. The castle looks impossible to get too, stuck very high up on a rocky promontory, but the path gracefully curves up to Villvieja where we ate our sandwiches, the track is then flanked by really ancient chestnut trees before arriving at the previously commanding Castillo de Cornatel (closed of course). We then dropped down to Borrenes to be met by Geoff with his duff Achilles tendon to finally reach the excellent looking Hotel Cornatel Medulas – the only place open since we left the shop inโ€Žโจ Toral de Merayo! fortunately, they offer evening dinner too with the excellent local Roandi wine ๐Ÿ™‚

    We covered the 23km (14.5 miles) with 547m (1,777 feet) of climbing at an overall average speed of 3.3km/hr ~2mph

    Strava is here:

    All the pictures are on Flickr here:
    Camino Invierno - Ponferrada to Borrenos

  • A day in Ponferrada & Villafranca

    Shock horror I at to be woken up by Colin calling me at 8.42 this morning ๐Ÿ™ย  I think the early start and travelling all day really shattered me and with the room in total darkness I just failed to wake up.

    After the โ‚ฌ4 hotel breakfast, we decided to drive over to Villafranca for some lunch and sightseeing, amusing to see busloads of pilgrims having a quick tour then quickly moving on. The town itself has a plethora of buildings looking for renovation and the prices seem very reasonable ๐Ÿ™‚

    Lunch was at the Don Nacho restaurant a great 3-course meal & wine for about ยฃ10 ๐Ÿ™‚

    After a siesta at the hotel, I went on a walk around Ponferrada to see the castle I passed on 5th September 2004 on my first Camino interesting to see so many empty shops in the town like the UK.

    Ponferrada Castle 2004 Taken with Treo

    Ponferrada Castle 2019 Taken with iPhone7

    Here is the Strava of the little stroll:

    Tomorrow we start the main walk of the Camino Invierno, should be interesting ๐Ÿ™‚

    Today’s pics:
    Ponferrada & Villafranca
     

  • Traveling to Ponferrada

    Traveling to Ponferrada

    A bit of a long and exhausting day starting at 05.50 leaving home and finishing at 23.26ย  arriving at the Hostal Nirvana in Ponferrada with a side trip to Porto for lunch.

    According to the Pedometer app I managed 8.5 miles and 28 stairs.

    It all went very smoothly apart from losing my hat at Stansted Airport necessitating a quick trip to Decathlon in Porto to buy a replacement and a set of walking poles. Could have been worse as I thought I had put my bag in the ‘secure’ lockers at the airport, however on my return the door was wide open ๐Ÿ™ but very fortunately, the bag was still intact. ๐Ÿ˜‰

    I met up with my new found walking pals in the airport OK although the other Geoff is struggling with his Achilles so will he walk or not?

    The restaurant Colin recommended in Porto,ย  A Grada,ย  was excellent and I chatted to a couple, an Irish lady and Greek man who had met when they were tour operators ages ago, a holiday romance that lasted.

    I managed to sleep in due to the room being in total darkness with the shutters closed, others were moaning about the AC not working but I was zonked out all night!

    Here are a few pics.
    Invierno Day1

     

     

  • My Third Camino

    Tomorrow I jet off to start my third Camino. This time rather than on my own or with Sally, but with two other guys Colin and another Geoff. Should be interesting as I’ve never met or spoke to either of them before ๐Ÿ™‚ย  plus Colin has done all the organisation! another first for me.

    This is the route and planned stopping points:

    A total of 160 miles and 20,000 feet of climbing! Maybe more suitable for Nick to run it ๐Ÿ™‚ but at least there are buses and trains to take the strain for my old legs if need be.

    More to follow, hopefully.